Definition of Remy Hair
Remy, also known as ‘remis’ hair or ‘cuticle hair’, is a classification given to hair that contains intact cuticles that all face the same direction. When all the cuticles run in the same direction, the hair retains a silky smooth feel, looks more natural, and lasts longer. Remy hair is also more resistant to matting and tangling.
If you’re shopping for a wig or hair extensions, you’ll most likely see the term “remy” quite often. This kind of hair can come from one or more donors.
The reason why quality remy hair does not tangle easily is due the actual makeup of the cuticles. The image below is a close up of a hair strand. Notice how the hair has a protective shell made of ‘flakes.’
This shell reacts in to different external environments, such as humidity, moisture and heat. If the shells surrounding each hair strand do not align, the flakes can interlock and fray. This causes the hair to tangle, lose shine, and overall natural appearance.
The Benefits of Remy Hair
The advantages of remy hair are not limited to less tangling and improved styling. When maintained properly, remy hair will last longer than synthetic wigs and extensions. Remy hair looks more natural than synthetic fiber hair. There is no comparison between synthetic and real hair!
Remy hair can typically be highlighted and blended with your natural hair color. This makes remy a good option if you are looking for versatility.
In some cases, unscrupulous sellers or manufacturers will dip hair with stripped or misaligned cuticles into silicon. The silicon dip disguises the hair and adds shine, making it appear to be higher quality than it actually is. Over time, the silicone coating will wear down, and the hair will appear duller.
The difference between Virgin Hair and Remy Hair
Your next step in the process of choosing the perfect wig or extensions is to select the hair type. Virgin hair is 100% human hair that has not been chemically altered or dyed. This means that most colors will not be available naturally, or they will cost a premium. The highest quality virgin hair is usually collected from a single donor, typically from India, Malaysia, Brazil or Europe.
Virgin hair is sold in the donor’s original color and hair texture, making it a great, but expensive choice. In most cases, virgin hair comes in darker colors because it is not processed, and lighter hair is more difficult to find. This makes long virgin blond hair very difficult to obtain.
The “European hair” craze was created because European hair tends to be naturally lighter, making it a good option for individuals looking for lighter virgin remy wigs or extensions. (The hair is also a bit more course and does not flow like Asian hair.)
Non-virgin remy hair, may be colored, permed or otherwise chemically treated. In most cases, lighter wigs and hair extension are treated.
Remy hair is not necessarily virgin, but virgin should always be remy.
Keep in mind, in order for hair to fall into the “virgin” category, it must not be dyed, bleached, processed or treated in any way. If you ordered a wig or hairpiece with multiple colors (for example, color number 14/6/8), it is not virgin hair. The supplier is coloring the hair according to your specifications.
Keep in mind the natural properties of hair from the country of origin. Indian and Chinese hair is naturally very straight, so beware of curly hair from these countries, as the hair may have been chemically altered.
Non-virgin hair is only a downside when the individual selling it claims it is virgin and charges a premium! Otherwise, there are many high quality alternatives.
How to Tell if Virgin Hair is Real
Real virgin hair will have natural highlights within the hair strands. Some strands may be slightly lighter or darker than others. If the color is too consistent or uniform, the hair may not be true virgin hair. See the image below for an example.
When you wash your wig for the first few times, make sure to note the color of the water running from the wig. If it is virgin hair, the water should be clear, even after many washes. If the hair has been dyed, you may see some of the dye come out, which will tint the water a different color, most commonly a purple or red tint.
Many times, non-virgin hair will be treated with silicone and coated with a chemical straightener. This allows the hair to appear silkier and smoother than it actually is. Oftentimes, this chemical alteration will produce an unnatural look. You can often feel this extra coating when you run through the hair with your fingers. The coating will also begin to break down over time, which is another indicator.
Again, always keep in mind that virgin hair should come in a natural color of the country of origin. If you are buying Indian or Chinese hair, it is highly unlikely you will find light brown or blonde virgin hair.
More likely, if you ordered a light colored wig from these countries, the wigs have been highlighted or colored, and is not true virgin hair. In countries like Russia, hair doesn’t tend to get darker than a medium brown, and in India, it will be very rare to find blond colored hair..
Single Drawn Vs. Double Drawn Hair
The single versus double drawn hair question typically only arises when you are dealing with hair extensions. However, it is good to know when searching for a wig just in case you see these terms advertised.
Double Drawn remy hair refers to hair that is hand collected from multiple donors, with cuticles aligned in the same direction, and 90-93 percent of the hair strands are equal in length. This means that shorter hairs are swapped out for longer ones. The thickness of the hair will be more uniform from end-to-end.
Double drawn remy hair typically has better overall volume because the hairs are paired based on their length which provides uniform thickness. However, they may not appear as natural looking as single drawn hair.
Single Drawn Remy hair typically contains a larger mix of full and varied hairs. This provides a more natural looking appearance because the hair thickness is not entirely uniform. The downside of single drawn hair is that it will not have the same thickness or volume as double drawn hair.
However, trimming the tapered tips off the hair bundle will provide a more uniform thickness. (Not necessarily recommended unless the initial hair is ordered in a longer length for this purpose.)
Difference Between Hair Grades 3A Through 7A
The hair grade system is used to quantify and identify hair quality, specifically with hair extensions. However, it is a loose system that does not require any official review or notation. There is some disagreement as to what the grading system actually measures. Sellers can technically make any claim they wish. Grades are not the end all, so use caution when reviewing hair grades.
Grades range from 3A, to 8A. The higher the grade, the more likely it is true remy hair, has fewer hair donors and is not dipped in an acid bath or heavily processed.
Grade 3A & Below
Hair grades 3 and below are considered to be lower quality options. These options may not be a wise investment for individuals looking for longevity. Grades 3A and below tend to dry and tangle very quickly and leave the owners frustrated.
Grade 3A hair is typically silicone dipped, which provides initial smoothness and shine. However, the hair will quickly degrade with wear, styling and washing. Very few wig shoppers will be satisfied with this grade. We recommend you avoid it.
Grade 4A
This grade is given to processed hair of decent quality. This grade of hair will still tangle and shed more easily because it tends to include hair with partial cuticles. This can become a problem at longer hair lengths. Avoid using excessive heat styling and combing the hair while it’s wet. This can help preserve the hair and increase longevity.
Grade 5A
Grade 5A is where the hair starts at a decent quality. 5A hair can contain non-remy hair in the wefts of some brands. Typically, 5A hair should be free of synthetic or mixed hair. It is a good middle ground between quality and value.
Grade 6A Hair
6A hair contains no synthetic hair and is generally considered to be good quality. Some sellers claim it is virgin hair, but this is only the case if the hair in unprocessed and not dyed. The cuticles should be aligned, which makes the hair remy. This grade will last longer, and is normally sold in an unprocessed state. It’s a great option for further styling.
Grade 7A and Above
Grade 7A+ will cost much more than lower grades. However, the quality of the hair will be much higher and remy. The hair will also last longer with proper maintenance. 7A and 8A grades are perfect if you are looking for longer hair over 18 inches long. The hair will be less likely to tangle, and will look very natural. 8A and above can usually be dyed blonde without sacrificing the overall reliability of the strands.
Once again, do not use the grade alone as the only indicator of hair quality, but rather as a starting point for research and benchmarking.
How to Wash Remy or Virgin Human Hair
Follow these steps to wash a wig or extensions made of human remy or virgin hair. Always avoid shampoo that contains sulfates, alcohols, propylene glycol or other strong chemicals to prevent hair damage. If you want to avoid a glassy look after washing, avoid shampoos with silicones.
- Prep the human hair wig or extensions for washing by combing through the hair from top to bottom using a wide toothed comb
- Rinse the wig or extensions in cool to lukewarm water
- Apply a small amount of natural, sulfate free shampoo to the damp hair, making sure to avoid the cap of the wig if applicable
- Comb the shampoo through the hair using downward strokes
- For wigs, lightly apply the soapy water to the inside of the cap, but avoid scrubbing
- When you are ready to rinse, flip the wig over and rinse from inside the cap
- Roll the wig or extensions in a towel and gently squeeze to remove excess water without rubbing
- Re-comb the hair using a wide tooth comb after it is dry, starting from the bottom working up
- Allow the hair to air dry, avoid using a blow dryer which can dry out and damage the hair
- Style the wig or hair extensions as you would normally when they are ready
Conclusion
Virgin remy hair is hair that contains intact cuticles. There are a variety of hair grades, with the best being 6A and above. Higher quality human hair wigs will be remy, but can also be classified as ‘virgin hair.’ When shopping for a natural looking wig or hair extensions, always physically touch the hair. Don’t hesitate to ask questions to the seller. Lastly, make sure you wash human hair wigs properly to improve longevity.
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